Summer Crochet Wrap Tutorial

Hello fellow hooky friends :-) As promised, this time I'm going to try and talk you through making the Summer Crochet Wrap. It's a join as you go (JAYGO) project. If you're comfortable doing this just skip the photos and head right down to the written pattern instructions. If not, I'm going to try and explain with photos and text. If you get stuck, just add a comment and I'll try to help! Ok lets get started...

I've made my wrap with the gorgeous Scheepjes Sunkissed yarn.

It's 100% cotton sport weight that seriously does not split. 

As with their Cotton 8 the more this yarn is handled the softer it gets!

It's machine washable and comes in 50g balls. 

THE DETAILS

The finished wrap measures approximately 22"x69.5" (56x178cm)

It weighs 385g and is made up of 114 motifs in total (6x19)

YOU WILL NEED

Sunkissed shade 3 x 150g

Sunkissed shade 6 x 150g

Sunkissed shade 7 x 150g

Crochet Hook  - recommended hook size is 3-3.5mm although I've used a size 4mm as I'm a tight hooker!

Scissors

Darning Needle to weave ends in

Blocking mat and stainless steel blocking pins

THE PATTERN

I've used this pattern. If you scroll down the linked page, you will find it.

Click on it and it takes you to the motif chart.

I won't publish the motif here as I don't want to infringe any copyright rules :-)

However at the end of the tutorial you will find that I've written out the pattern for all non chart readers.

TIPS!

My instructions and pattern are written in UK English crochet terms

Gauge is not really crucial for this wrap. What is more important is that your finished motif feels nice and soft. I suggest you work a motif in the recommended hook size and see what it feels like. If it feels stiff, try going up a hook size. Likewise, if it starts to resemble a string vest you might want to try a smaller hook! Sometimes it takes a few tries to find the right hook size.  

I am left handed! This means my rounds are worked in reverse to right handers and the same for joining. For those right handers out there.....just flip the joining directions.  I would suggest weaving in your ends as you go, otherwise like me, you'll have way over a hundred to weave in at the end!!! Ok. All set?

Chain 6 and join with a slip stitch in the first chain made.

Round 1. Chain 4 (this counts as 1 treble and a chain stitch), treble crochet into ring, chain 1. Repeat this 14 further times. Slip stitch into 3rd chain of first stitch. You will now have 16 treble crochets and 16 chain spaces. 

Round 2.  Slip stitch into next chain space. Now we are going to make some treble clusters! The first is slightly different to the rest. To make the first cluster chain 3 (this makes a treble) now yarn around hook, insert hook into chain space, yarn around hook and pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn around hook, insert hook into same chain space, yarn around hook and pull through 2 loops. You should now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn around hook and pull through all 3 loops. Chain 3. The following clusters are made as follows: yarn around hook, insert into next chain space, yarn around hook and pull through 2 loops, repeat this 2 more times. You should have 4 loops on your hook. Yarn around hook and pull through all 4 loops. Chain 3. 

Repeat until you have worked clusters into all 16 chain spaces. Join with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of first stitch. You should have 16 clusters and 16 chains of 3.

To get to the starting position for round 3, slip stitch into the next 2 stitches (marked below by arrows) and then slip stitch into a chain 3 space. 

Round 3.  Now we are going to make some corners and turn these circles into squares! * Double crochet into the 3 chain space, chain 5 and double crochet into the next 3 chain space. Repeat this once more. Into the next 3 chain space you need to make 5 treble crochets, chain 5 and then another 5 treble crochets. Repeat from * and finish by joining with a slip stitch into the first double crochet. 

First corner made!

Your finished motif will look something like this!

This join as you go wrap starts with one completed motif. The rest of the motifs are joined on round 3. 

 Work you next motif to round 3 then work the first 2 5-chains and a corner ending with a double crochet in the next chain-3 space. 

To join the motifs, chain 2 and then slip into the 5-chain space of the first motif. Chain a further 2 stitches and then double crochet into the next 3-chain space. Repeat this once more. Now you are ready to join the corners. Work your next 5 trebles into the next 3-chain space, chain 2 and slip stitch into the corner of the first motif. Chain a further 2 stitches and then 5 trebles into the same space. Double crochet in the next 3-chain space. Continue to work the rest of round 3. 

NOTE!

We are always going to leave the bottom corner not joined. This is because we'll be joining opposite corners on the next row.

Work along your first row of joins. My wrap is 6 motifs wide with 19 rows of motifs.

The first motif of the second row is joined at the top as marked. Please note that the corner is joined diagonally with the one to the top right. This is so that the joins are nice neat.

The second motif is joined as above. 

For the corner join you need to insert your hook UNDER the previously joined corner and into the corner chain space, yarn around hook, pull through both loops. You are effectively making a double crochet over the join. This is the neatest way I've seen of joining the corners. Continue to join as before. 

At the end of each row ensure that the top end corners are joined to the one above.  Continue to join your motifs. On your very last row (YAY!!!!) make sure that the bottom edge motifs are all joined together. Once you have finished your wrap it's time to block it! 

I have some kids play mats that I use to block larger items. I pin it out and then give it a good drenching with a spray gun. Alternatively you can soak it first and then pin it out. 

Because the yarn is made from cotton, it holds its shape beautifully once blocked and has a wonderful drape. Blocking is an onerous task but it really is worth it for the finished result!

Go on, grit your teeth and get blocking ;-)

WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS Abbreviations st - stitch ch - chain sl st - slip stitch ch sp - chain space yrh - yarn round hook tr - treble crochet dc - double crochet

beg3trcl – ch3, yrh insert hook into ch sp, yrh and pull up loop, yrh insert hook into same ch sp, yrh and pull up loop,  [3 loops on hook], yrh and pull through 3 loops.

 3trcl – yrh insert hook into ch sp , yrh and pull up loop, yrh and insert into same ch sp, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and insert into same ch sp, yrh and pull up loop,  [4 loops on hook] yrh and pull through 4 loops.

Ch 6, join with sl st in first ch.  Round 1. Ch 4 (counts as first Tr, ch 1).* Into circle (1 tr, ch 1) Rpt from * 14 further times. Join with a  sl st into 3rd ch of 1st st. (16 tr, 16 1-ch) Round 2. Sl st into next ch sp. Beg3trcl, ch 3. * (3trcl, ch-3) Rpt from * 14 times. Join with sl st into 3rd ch of 1st st.  (16 3trcl, 16 3-ch) Round 3. Sl st in next 2 st. Sl st into ch-3 space. * Dc, ch 5, dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 5, dc in next ch-3 sp,  to make corner - 5tr in next 3-ch sp, ch 5, 5tr in same ch sp. Rpt from * for rest of round. Join with a sl st in first dc. I really do hope these instructions are clear! Happy hooking everyone x